Varanasi. Benaras. Kashi. City of Light – India’s holiest city has many names, and many faces. Every morning the pink pre-dawn light dances on the Ganges to the sound of bells, and hot, sweet tea bubbles in rusted saucepans. And behind the ghats, winding gullies team with bicycles and buffalo, temples, shops selling jalebis, bangles, buttons, jasmine perfume. It feels like being in another universe, in a very different time. Self-contained, sprawling, meditative, bustling – Kashi is everything. Altogether. At the same time.